Benzoin

Note: base
Family: gourmand
Type: absolute
Origin: India

Ingredient Notes

Benzoin is a vanilla-like note that is frequently used
in amber, vanilla, and oriental fragrances. Highly versatile, benzoin also complements citrus, woods and florals. An excellent fixative, it's often used to increase the longevity of a fragrance. Use sparingly as benzoin's richness can overwhelm other ingredients.

Prominent In

Ambre Nue (Atelier Cologne), Coromandel (Chanel), Terre d’Hermes (Hermès), No9 Benjoin (Prada), Opium (Yves Saint Laurent)

Blends Well With

Spices, Vanilla, Citrus, Patchouli, Woods

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Tonka Bean

Note: heart
Family: gourmand
Type: essential oil
Origin: Brazil

Ingredient Notes

Tonka bean is a very popular perfume ingredient that is indispensable to the oriental family. Like vanilla and benzoin, tonka bean is used to add sweetness, depth and warmth to a fragrance. Its intoxicating scent is reminiscent of vanilla with hints of almond, cinnamon, and clove. Use up to 2%, a little bit goes a long way.

Prominent In

Coco Mademoiselle (Chanel), Addict (Dior), Le Male (Jean Paul Gaultier), Lolita Lempicka (Lolita Lempicka), Angel (Thierry Mugler)

Blends Well With

Amber, Patchouli, Sandalwood, Rose, Lemon

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Coconut Milk

Note: base
Family: gourmand
Type: aroma molecule
Origin: —

Ingredient Notes

This is the aroma molecule methyl laitone. It is an interesting, powerful ingredient that provides milkiness in sandalwood accords and provides "cosmetic body" to white flowers and fruity notes. It’s so warm, creamy, milky, and sweet. The smell of coconut automatically gives off a very exotic and tropical smell.

Prominent In

Virgin Island Water (Creed), Sensuous Nude (Estée Lauder), Eau de Soleil Blanc (Tom Ford), Crystal Noir (Versace)

Blends Well With

Sandalwood, Tuberose, Jasmine, Peach, Vanilla

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Vanilla

Note: base
Family: gourmand
Type: CO2 extract
Origin: Madagascar

Ingredient Notes

Vanilla comes from the seeds of a dried pod from a climbing orchid-like plant which flourishes especially well in Madagascar. It smells very much like natural vanilla. Like benzoin and tonka bean, vanilla is used to smooth rough edges, add sweetness, depth and warmth to a fragrance. It's a very common and versatile ingredient in perfumery.

Prominent In

Eau Duelle (Diptyque), Shalimar (Guerlain), Vanille 44 (Le Labo), Un Bois Vanille (Serge Lutens), Tobacco Vanille (Tom Ford)

Blends Well With

Incense, Woods, Oriental Fragrances, Amber

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GOURMAND

Sweet. Caremel. Warm

These fragrances use notes of food-like smells — frequently chocolate, tonka bean or vanilla to round out their scent. Many also use synthetics to emulate food smells.

There are some solid, elegant gourmand fragrances that you should try. Most often, these fragrances capture the essence of desserts: the richness of a chocolate cake; the creaminess of caramel; or the sweetness of a giant candied apple.

1 Christian Dior - Fève Délicieuse
2 Lolita Lempicka - Lolita Lempicka
3 Tom Ford - Eau de Soleil Blanc
4 Yves Saint Laurent - Black Opium