Note: base
Family: gourmand
Type: absolute
Origin: India
Benzoin is a vanilla-like note that is frequently used
in amber, vanilla, and oriental fragrances. Highly versatile, benzoin also complements citrus, woods and florals. An excellent fixative, it's often used to increase the longevity of a fragrance. Use sparingly as benzoin's richness can overwhelm other ingredients.
Ambre Nue (Atelier Cologne), Coromandel (Chanel), Terre d’Hermes (Hermès), No9 Benjoin (Prada), Opium (Yves Saint Laurent)
Spices, Vanilla, Citrus, Patchouli, Woods
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Note: heart
Family: gourmand
Type: essential oil
Origin: Brazil
Tonka bean is a very popular perfume ingredient that is indispensable to the oriental family. Like vanilla and benzoin, tonka bean is used to add sweetness, depth and warmth to a fragrance. Its intoxicating scent is reminiscent of vanilla with hints of almond, cinnamon, and clove. Use up to 2%, a little bit goes a long way.
Coco Mademoiselle (Chanel), Addict (Dior), Le Male (Jean Paul Gaultier), Lolita Lempicka (Lolita Lempicka), Angel (Thierry Mugler)
Amber, Patchouli, Sandalwood, Rose, Lemon
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Note: base
Family: gourmand
Type: aroma molecule
Origin: —
This is the aroma molecule methyl laitone. It is an interesting, powerful ingredient that provides milkiness in sandalwood accords and provides "cosmetic body" to white flowers and fruity notes. It’s so warm, creamy, milky, and sweet. The smell of coconut automatically gives off a very exotic and tropical smell.
Virgin Island Water (Creed), Sensuous Nude (Estée Lauder), Eau de Soleil Blanc (Tom Ford), Crystal Noir (Versace)
Sandalwood, Tuberose, Jasmine, Peach, Vanilla
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Note: base
Family: gourmand
Type: CO2 extract
Origin: Madagascar
Vanilla comes from the seeds of a dried pod from a climbing orchid-like plant which flourishes especially well in Madagascar. It smells very much like natural vanilla. Like benzoin and tonka bean, vanilla is used to smooth rough edges, add sweetness, depth and warmth to a fragrance. It's a very common and versatile ingredient in perfumery.
Eau Duelle (Diptyque), Shalimar (Guerlain), Vanille 44 (Le Labo), Un Bois Vanille (Serge Lutens), Tobacco Vanille (Tom Ford)
Incense, Woods, Oriental Fragrances, Amber
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These fragrances use notes of food-like smells — frequently chocolate, tonka bean or vanilla to round out their scent. Many also use synthetics to emulate food smells.
There are some solid, elegant gourmand fragrances that you should try. Most often, these fragrances capture the essence of desserts: the richness of a chocolate cake; the creaminess of caramel; or the sweetness of a giant candied apple.
1 Christian Dior - Fève Délicieuse
2 Lolita Lempicka - Lolita Lempicka
3 Tom Ford - Eau de Soleil Blanc
4 Yves Saint Laurent - Black Opium
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